General Blasting Questions
This would always be assessed on your needs and cost effectiveness. With wet blasting, 98% of dust is eliminated, abrasive use is always less than half of dry blasting, the cleanup zone is very small and much easier to clean up, no worries about warpage and you can remove soft coatings and powder coatings 15 times faster than conventional blasting.
There is no blasting with any type of media which won’t do some damage to the finish. Sometimes different cleaners and detergents are effective. There are chemicals that can also be used. If the door has to be repainted, we would recommend a very light brush blasting for adhesion and then a repaint. If the door is always getting tagged with graffiti, we can apply an invisible Nano coating that allows you to wash it off with warm soap and water. This will work about 4 times before a reapplication of the coating will need to be reapplied.
No, so far there is no known coating that we can’t remove efficiently. Of course, this will always depend on how good the shape of the substrate is in.
Yes we can? Wood restoration can be performed by blasting with either a wet or dry blaster and with various abrasives. The costs are directly correlated to the quality expected. We are even able to remove bare liquid rawhide from cedar homes with very consistent results and happy customers.
It is usually similar in cost, but all things considered, we are usually called upon when dry blasting is not feasible or desired for many reasons like containment, delicate substrates etc.
Every job is different. We take into consideration all the details of the job. Everyone’s needs are different like how much of the vehicle is getting blasted, is there undercoating, heavy rust, is the glass or drive train still in. For a rough guide, if we were blasting a complete disassembled vehicle, with no glass or undercoating it would cost approximately $2200. Please review our vehicle price guide for further pricing. Just remember, it is only a guideline as every situation is different. In many situations parts can be bundled and the individual part costs can decrease.
We will definitely let you know which one, or if both would work for you. We do both wet and dry so no matter what your needs might be, we can handle your job.
What is the difference between your blasters and a blaster or pressure washer I can buy at a box store?
Regarding blasting, the primary difference would be volume. What you could blast with a box store blaster in an hour, we could do in a minute. That is if you had the pressure. There are many situations where a box blaster wouldn’t be able to make a dent on what is being removed. With our blaster we have enough pressure to blast extremely hard concrete, 60+ mpa, which a box store blaster would only blow the dust off of.
Regarding a pressure washer, the primary differences are 1) we can control our pressure for different types of substrates and 2) we create a profile for adhesion. A normal pressure washer will only remove dirt or loose material. It will not create any profile for adhesion.
Wet abrasive blasting leaves no coating/residue or embedment, has no harmful effect on plants and a profile is gained to create adhesion of coatings and repairs to a substrate.
Soda blasting leaves a residue and embedmentnutural of abrasive on the surface, if not contained properly plants will die, not enough profile is gained for proper adhesion of epoxies and coatings. It can also cause adhesion loss in metals because it acts as a neutralizer. Soda is a base, most automotive primers these days use acid for adhesion on lightly profiled metal. If the substrate is not washed and sanded properly after blasting with soda, delamination can result. Soda is excellent for food grade requirements, for cleaning, odour suppression and light blasting where no profiling is required. It is the least aggressive of all abrasive blasting, the next less aggressive would be dry ice. Soda blasting will also not remove rust or corrosion.
Dry Ice blasting is broken down into media sized particles, vapourizing on contact, leaving nothing but the debris and contamination being removed. It leaves absolutely no profile for adhesion. It is an excellent method to clean and strip substrates ex. electrical rooms, panel boxes, mould and smoke in attics and hard to clean areas.
Virtually any substrate can be blasted with the correct process and media.
Both methods can be used on extremely thin metals, however wet blasting is preferred. If needed, we could blast 28 gauge metal, basically the thickness of metal fascia.
We can suggest ways to help lower the cost of our services by having the customer perform some of the necessary preparation ahead of time. The amount of preparation is dependent on the situation and every situation is different. Some of the preparation concerns are containment, landscaping, proximity to non-blasting items, ventilation and safety.
Yes, we can mask and protect areas not being blasted right to a sharp edge if necessary. We use special tapes, rubber belting, tarps, heavy poly, metal shields and plywood to protect anything from being damaged during the blasting process.
Wet Blasting Questions
Vapour blasting is just another word for wet blasting. Wet / Vapour blasting is the use of pressurized water mixed with abrasive, transported in a stream of air. The air, water and abrasive pressure can all be controlled independent of each other. This process gives a flushing action with the water so no media is impregnated into the substrate being blasted. 98 % of the dust is eliminated, no heat or hot sparks are generated. The abrasive and removed debris falls in close proximity to the blasted area. Very little abrasive is used with the process also. Because the media used is wet, the impact is much greater because the media is heavier and more powerful. It would be like getting hit in the face from wet sand compared to dry. This is why we can use way less pressure and media to do the same job.
Wet blasting is unlike dry blasting where the process is sheer force of media impact. With dry blasting there is a lot less control over the media and a lot more pressure is needed to create the same effect. Lots of media is just wasted in this process as the media is broken down easily along with the waste products of what is being blasted creating plumbs of dust and debris over a large area which can be carried far with the wind.
Water usage can be completely controlled as low as 5 g/hr and most of the water will turn into vapour. If you have landscape issues or concerns of water, we can use poly against the foundation with industrial landscape fabric on the poly so the water will flow away from the basement. As the water flows thru the landscape fabric the contaminants are filtered leaving just the debris behind for easy cleanup.
Pressure washing your building alone can use from 120 g/hr to 240 g/hr using an average pressure washer. We stress this as there is a common misconception that wet blasting uses a lot of water. If you want to see a video showing how little water runoff there is, take a look at this video of us blasting a Kal-Tire building. Notice of how little water there is on the ground.
How can you use wet blasting on toxic materials? Won’t the toxic waste leech into the soil and drains?
This is always a concern and there is always a way to make sure this never happens. Sometimes we have to use special equipment to capture and contain the area. The use of pumps and vac trucks for the proper disposal. Very little water can be used in the process, just enough to keep everything damp. There doesn’t have to be water everywhere. We can use as little as 5g of water / hr.
We are 98% dust free. If a builder tells you their system is “Dust-Free” or “100% Dustless”, ask them for their Air Quality Control Report to prove their claim.
Dry Blasting Questions
No, we will not damage your project. We would never blast a substrate we were unfamiliar with without testing a small area to make sure the outcome was what you wanted.
Yes, warping is very possible when blasting is performed by someone inexperienced or if the wrong equipment is being used. If you use wet abrasive blasting and an experienced blaster this will not happen.
Cork Spray Questions
Absolutely not. Cork and all building materials included are actually rated on a scientific term called Thermal Conductivity, not R value. R Value is a false marketing scheme. All building materials change in value as the temperature, humidity and altitudes change.
For example: Thermal conductivity of building materials, is measured in how long it takes a certain material to transfer heat / cold energy through it. The longer it takes, the smaller the decimal. The longer it takes for heat energy to go through a material the more (insulation) energy savings it has.
The thermal conductivity of Cork from Diasen is 0.086
Here is an analogy that everyone can understand and could be a fun test for those so inclined: Picture a full aluminum beer can compared to a full glass beer bottle, sitting in the sun. Put them in a cooler of ice! The beer can will always be cooler to begin with and it will cool off much quicker once placed on the ice. How significant is this difference? The difference would be Aluminum has a thermal conductivity rating of 237.0 The Glass 0.93 (FYI Copper 390.0) The aluminum is able to dissipate the heat even in the sun! Now there is a lot of difference isn’t there? My beer is going to be way colder quicker in the can, and I didn’t melt all the dam ice in my cooler trying to cool off my beer with the aluminum cans. This difference is huge when I want my beer cold and I want the ice to last all day or weekend.
We can put cork spray on almost any substrate with the exception being vinyl siding.
Cork is very useful for many things, both indoors and out. It carries the same principles inside and out. It can be decorative. Our cork can be brushed, rolled, Sprayed, troweled and tooled with designs. It can be used in bathrooms because of its resistance to mould and it breaths. It can be used for sound dampening up to 18 decibels. Cork can be put over stipple or instead of stipple. It makes all drywall way more durable and it takes the Echo right out of your house. It is class b fire retardant and give off less toxic smoke. This gives you more time to get out of your home in the case of a fire.
Some other benefits of cork spray are: uv resistance (fades 1% /yr while paint/stucco fades up to 10% /yr), highly elastic, water repellent, breathable, voc free, crack filling , it is 100% eco friendly and it is Leed certified.
Your brochure says cork spray looks like stucco. Why would I want to use cork spray instead of stucco?
Cork spray is like a thermal blanket wrapped around your building and it has a thermal conductivity rating of 0.086, stucco is 01.00. Cork is flexible, mould reststant, bug and rodent resistant, Color fade is 1% / year (paint and stucco is up to 10% / year). It has an 18 decibel sound rating. Cork spray is less expensive than stucco.
Yes, definitely it is very durable, anti slip and comfortable to walk on. We also have cork compatible sealants that make it even more durable for high traffic areas. It is water repellent and breathable.
I understand that cork isn’t harmful to the environment, but is there anything else in the product which is harmful to the environment?
You are correct, our cork spray is not harmful to the environment. It is made with 100% water based Resins and it is a single component product. When fully cured, it cannot be washed off with any known chemical or cleaners.
We have many common standard colours, however we can colour match any colour for a one time $100 engineering fee.
Can the insulation properties be increased by adding additional layers or increasing the thickness?
Yes, a thicker application of cork will increase the thermal conductivity of the substrate. However, it gets to a point where there could be more cost effective solutions to increase the insulation properties. For example, there are smoothers and insulation which could be applied underneath the cork spray.
For a typical application the thickness is 3/16 of an inch.